Replacing a sliding patio door

By Bill and Kevin Burnett
Inman News®

Q: I'm not sure when my house was built, but I have old-style, anodized, single-pane aluminum windows and doors. As an ongoing project, I want to replace the old stuff. To start, I want to replace my patio door with a new energy-efficient one. Can I leave the frame in or must I remove all of it?

 

A: You're wise to do this job in stages: one opening at a time. Retrofitting windows and doors is a fairly big job, but a good one for a couple of dedicated do-it-yourselfers with moderate carpentry skills.

Bill recently replaced the old, 6-foot aluminum slider in his Walnut Creek, Calif., house with an energy-efficient vinyl model. He's no longer able to do this type of work himself, so he hired a skilled carpenter and an assistant. The guys were in and out in about four hours, and Bill ended up writing a check for $3,800. If you do the job yourself, figure it will take you twice as long, but you'll pay half as much.

As for replacing your slider, it depends on what you mean by the frame. If you mean keep the anodized frame and just replace the panels, the answer is no. But you can certainly remove the entire door, leaving the wood framing in place and then put in a new unit.

Realize though that you may have to make some modifications to the 2-by-4 framing in the opening.

Get started by removing the old door. First, take off the interior and exterior trim. For each trim piece, score the paint and caulking with a utility knife so as not to damage walls when removing it. Slide a putty knife into the joint where the trim meets the door frame. Pry the trim away from the door enough so you can work a flat bar into the space and slowly pry off the trim piece. If you're careful, you should be able to reuse these pieces.

Now, remove the sliding panel. With the trim off, the nailing fins on the exterior are exposed and the door can be removed.

You will want to remove as much weight as possible, so first lift the sliding panel out of the door and put it in your recycling pile. Then, remove the nails in the nailing flange with a tool called a cat's paw. There also will be a number of screws through the frame, especially through the sill, which will need to be removed. Then, with all nails and screws out, remove the old door and frame.

Measure the rough opening and check that it's plumb and level. Even though you're replacing an old slider with a new one, the rough openings may differ. If that's the case, some modification of the opening will be necessary. Usually, the new door requires a smaller opening.

If so, build out the opening with the correct width of plywood to get the right rough opening. If the opening needs to be enlarged, reframing it is a big job. We'd probably return the new door and search for one that fits.

Installation is fairly straightforward. The new door will come with detailed instructions. Follow them to ensure that new door is properly secured to the rough framing. Pay attention that the door is plumb and square in the opening and that it is properly caulked and insulated to prevent water and air infiltration.

 

For a more detailed look, we found a thorough instructional video on replacing a sliding patio door:www.ronhazelton.com/projects/how_to_install_a_sliding_patio_door.

If you have a chimney, it needs to be swept

By Paul Bianchina
Inman News®

As fall starts putting a bit of a chill in the air again, it's time to start thinking of things to do around the house to get ready. If you burn wood in a fireplace or a wood stove, whether it's your primary source of heat or just for an occasional pleasant evening fire, one thing you can be sure of is that your chimney's going to get dirty. It's simply an inescapable fact of life that chimneys and soot go hand in hand, and that combination can equal some serious, life-threatening danger if you don't take care of it.

As wood burns, not all of it is consumed, and what isn't consumed goes up your fireplace chimney or wood stove flue pipe in the form of creosote and soot. Creosote is a thick, oily material that results from the distillation of wood smoke, which solidifies as it cools. Soot is basically particles of partially burnt material that builds up in chimneys, metal flue pipes, and flue caps.

Over time, the soot and solidified creosote build up and clog the interior of the chimney or flue pipe. When the temperatures in the flue get high enough, which they can easily do when a fire is burning in the fireplace, the creosote will ignite. The result is a flue fire, which can destroy your entire home!

Chimney sweeping

The only way to get rid of the soot and creosote is through regular cleaning. Chimney cleaning -- or sweeping as it's more properly known -- is a matter of physically brushing the inside of the chimney to dislodge the built-up material.

Chimney sweeping can be physically tiring and even dangerous. Tall chimneys, long ladders, steep roofs, and icy conditions can make for a hazardous combination. If your chimney needs cleaning but undertaking the work is not your idea of a fun weekend, consider hiring it out to a chimney sweep.

Chimney sweeping is an honored profession that goes back centuries -- in fact, some legends suggest that chimney sweeps bring good luck. Today's chimney sweeps are licensed, bonded and insured -- something you want to be sure and check on before hiring them. They have the proper tools for the job, and are also experienced enough to detect potential chimney and flue problems and bring them to your attention before they result in a house fire.

Typically, chimney sweeps will begin with a physical inspection of your fireplace or wood stove, the chimney or flue pipe, the spark arrestor, and any other components of the system. If they see any problems, they'll typically make specific suggestions for repair, or they may recommend masons, wood stove technicians, or other professionals who can assist you with any necessary repairs.

Next, they'll cover the interior portion of the fireplace with plastic as necessary to contain any soot and dust that's created during the cleaning process. Then they'll head up onto the roof and, using a combination of long poles, brushes and scrapers, proceed to thoroughly brush and clean the insides of the chimney, causing the hardened material to break off and fall to the bottom. The final step is to clean out the inside of the fireplace, then vacuum up any dust.

Do-it-yourself chimney sweeping

Armed with the proper tools, chimney sweeping is well within the capabilities of most do-it-yourselfers. You'll need one or more chimney brushes of the proper size, as well as poles or ropes to work the brushes through the chimney. You can get what you need at most fireplace and woodstove dealers, home centers, hardware stores, and some other retailers.

It's important to use some common sense here. Use a sturdy ladder of the appropriate size for the job. Set it up correctly and don't overextend yourself -- it takes only one slip to result in disaster. Wear appropriate clothing and slip-resistant footwear.

Finally, when cleaning out the fireplace be sure and place the ashes in an airtight container. Even ashes you think are cool can still retain a remarkable amount of heat, and can burn right through paper bags, plastic garbage cans, cardboard boxes, and other unsuitable containers.

How often to clean

If you have the bad habit of damping the fire down and depriving it of oxygen so that it will burn longer, the result is a lot more smoke. That's not only harmful to the environment, but it also produces a far greater amount of partially burnt solids. These solids will build up rapidly, so the chimney will get dirty much more quickly, and should be cleaned on yearly basis. On the other hand, hotter fires that burn the wood more efficiently also help clean the chimney, and can probably be cleaned less often, but you'll need to rely on a visual inspection to be sure.

Colorful Wood Place Mat

Want an easy way to spice up mealtime? Make this DIY place mat that mimics the look of slatted wood window blinds.

Step 1: Using a handsaw, cut three 8'-long pieces of pine moulding into 15 slats 18" long. 

Step 2: Paint the slats in colors of your choice. Let dry. 

Step 3: Arrange the slats as you like with the flat side up, leaving about 1/16" between each piece. Place two strips of painter’s tape across all 15 slats, 3-1/2" in from each end; place a third strip of tape between them. 

Step 4: Working along the outer edge of the left piece of tape, wrap and tie a knot of twine around the end slat. Use a match or lighter to melt the end of the knot to prevent unraveling. 

Step 5: Hang the mat off the edge of your work surface, and then weave the twine between the slats until you have six to eight rows. When finished, tie another knot and melt the end. 

Step 6: Repeat Steps 4 and 5, working along the outer edge of the right piece of tape. Remove all tape when finished.

Asbestos disclosure a 'mine field' for home inspectors

By Barry Stone
Inman News®

DEAR BARRY: If a home inspector knew there was asbestos in a building that was being renovated, shouldn't he have said something? In this case, a safety officer finally shut down the project. Is the home inspector liable for not warning us about asbestos? --Gerald

DEAR GERALD: The answer to your question has some complexities. First of all, a home inspector cannot know for certain that a particular material contains asbestos. Some building materials may be suspect, but laboratory analysis is necessary to conclude that asbestos fibers are present.

Secondly, the standards of practice for home inspectors specifically exclude environmental hazards. Therefore, home inspectors are not liable in a legal sense for not disclosing asbestos materials.

On the other hand, experienced home inspectors are aware, or should be aware, of materials that are likely to contain asbestos. Common examples include acoustic textured ceilings, old forms of duct insulation, vinyl floor coverings, old drywall mud, old asphalt composition roofing materials, roofing mastic, old pipe insulation, and more.

Some home inspectors might point out a material as "may contain asbestos," while recommending further evaluation by an asbestos specialist. But most home inspectors avoid the subject completely for fear of becoming liable for materials that they do not disclose as "may contain asbestos." The problem here is fear of litigation, a major threat to home inspectors, as it is to most people who are in business.

On the other hand, if a home inspector is aware that a client plans to remodel a home, or if an inspector sees work in progress, it would be wise for that inspector to recommend a professional asbestos inspection prior to commencing or continuing work on the property.

Unfortunately, the subject of asbestos disclosure is a mine field for inspectors, giving rise to conflicting opinions when home inspectors gather to discuss and debate the details and procedures of their work.

In any event, a home inspector who says nothing about asbestos is protected by the standards of practice for the profession and is not legally liable for nondisclosure.

DEAR BARRY: Our home has two layers of shingle roofing. When we bought it two years ago, the seller said the shingles were 17 years old. How much longer can we expect a second roof layer to last? --Julie

DEAR JULIE: The number of roof layers should not affect the longevity of the material. What matters is the quality of the product. Shingles are rated according to the number of years they are warranted by the manufacturer. You can buy 20-year shingles, 30-year shingle, 40-year shingles, and so on.

Longevity is also affected by the climate. In areas with hot, dry summers, shingles wear out sooner than in locales with cooler climates or with overcast skies.

The only way to determine the condition and remaining longevity of your roof is to have it inspected by a qualified roofing contractor or a competent home inspector. If you had a home inspection when you bought the home, the inspector should have given you some idea of the condition of the roofing.

When hiring contractor, be a 'tough customer'

By Bill and Kevin Burnett
Inman News®

This is a cautionary tale. The moral of this story is when a homeowner hires a contractor, it's incumbent on him or her to oversee the work and call any problems to the contractor's attention immediately. There are no dumb questions, and don't stop asking until you're satisfied with the answer. This hit close to home recently.

A friend of ours sells books to school libraries. Because of the lousy economy and because the book market is going more and more digital, her income is shrinking along with her sales. The company is in the midst of restructuring, and our friend fully expects that she and many other salespeople are about to be unemployed.

Anticipating what seems to be the inevitable, our friend is tightening her belt and getting her condo ready to sell. She sought our advice on what to do.

We told her she needed to redo her small master bathroom, add some fresh paint, make some minor repairs, declutter, and clean, clean, clean. Then put it on the market and hope for the best.

Because she's not certain whether she owes more than the condo is worth, it's important that any work she does be inexpensive. It still has to look good, though. She went to one of the local big box stores to buy a prefab shower stall and a new toilet, vanity and vinyl flooring. She also bought new fixtures for the vanity and shower and contracted for installation through the store. The total cost of the new bath is about $4,000, which she hopes to recoup via an increased sales price.

Our friend found out she could save $1,000 or so by demolishing the old master bath and taking care of the painting herself. This left some rough plumbing, shower stall installation, a bit of Sheetrocking and floor installation for the pros.

This sounded like a good plan to us, but all didn't quite go according to plan.

The plumber came in only a day later than promised (not bad in the building trades) and moved the shower drain and set the shower pan. The drywall contractor came in the next day to patch the wall above the edge of the shower walls. He took one step into the shower and noticed that the pan flexed up and down about 1/2 inch. He said, "This isn't right," and left, figuring that the pan and shower walls needed to come out, meaning he would have to do the Sheetrock work twice. Work stopped.

Whenever we install a new prefab shower pan or tub enclosure we set it in bed of thin-set mortar to ensure a solid base. This plumber did not do that.

Our friend complained to the general contractor who gave her a song and dance about "workmanlike business practices" and how they "always do it this way." We told our friend to get a second opinion, and a licensed plumber soon confirmed that the installation was done improperly.

After a little debate, Sarah and the general contractor agreed to support the bottom of the pan with expanding foam shot through holes drilled in the subfloor. We're a little leery of this solution. Open cell foam can compress when crushed so although it may be a temporary fix we're skeptical that it will stand the test of time.

Nevertheless, with a solution of sorts in the offing, the Sheetrocker came back and did the patch job.

The contract also called for installation of a new vinyl floor. The flooring contractor, an old pro whom our friend had used before, took one look at the vinyl curling around the edges and told Sarah she needed new underlayment. The general contractor missed this too.

In the end, the bath will look just fine. Our friend's a good painter and the drywall job is professional. Our friend will enlist Kevin to confirm that she installs the new toilet, vanity and countertop correctly.

Like our dad always said, "If you're going to do a job, do it right." And we say, if you hire someone to do a job, be a tough customer. It's your duty to make sure it's done right.

The Foreclosure Report - August 2012

Foreclosure Starts Down Dramatically

August 2012 California Notice of Defaults were down 23.6 percent from the prior month, and down 49.1 percent compared to last year. In Arizona, Notice of Sales were down 16.1 percent from the prior month, and down 42.2 percent compared to last year. The decline in Foreclosure Starts is even more significant on an average daily basis, down 30.2 percent from the prior month in California with 23 business days in August vs. 21 business days in July.

Foreclosure Sales were up 23.7 percent in California on a month over month basis. On an average daily basis, the increase was up 12.9 percent from the prior month.

In Oregon, non judicial foreclosure activity almost came to a halt, with Foreclosure Starts down 80.6 percent from the prior month and down 93.9 percent compared to last year, most likely indicating a move to judicial foreclosures as discussed last month.
"We continue to see reports that there will be a wave of foreclosure sales after the election or at the start of the year,” stated Sean O'Toole, Founder & CEO of ForeclosureRadar. “The lack of Foreclosure Starts this month puts a nail in the coffin of this theory. There will be no wave of foreclosures for at least five months. The good news for investors and first-time buyers is that Foreclosure Sales have at least remained flat or slightly up, continuing to provide some opportunities in the meantime."

     

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