Replacing a sliding patio door

By Bill and Kevin Burnett
Inman News®

Q: I'm not sure when my house was built, but I have old-style, anodized, single-pane aluminum windows and doors. As an ongoing project, I want to replace the old stuff. To start, I want to replace my patio door with a new energy-efficient one. Can I leave the frame in or must I remove all of it?

 

A: You're wise to do this job in stages: one opening at a time. Retrofitting windows and doors is a fairly big job, but a good one for a couple of dedicated do-it-yourselfers with moderate carpentry skills.

Bill recently replaced the old, 6-foot aluminum slider in his Walnut Creek, Calif., house with an energy-efficient vinyl model. He's no longer able to do this type of work himself, so he hired a skilled carpenter and an assistant. The guys were in and out in about four hours, and Bill ended up writing a check for $3,800. If you do the job yourself, figure it will take you twice as long, but you'll pay half as much.

As for replacing your slider, it depends on what you mean by the frame. If you mean keep the anodized frame and just replace the panels, the answer is no. But you can certainly remove the entire door, leaving the wood framing in place and then put in a new unit.

Realize though that you may have to make some modifications to the 2-by-4 framing in the opening.

Get started by removing the old door. First, take off the interior and exterior trim. For each trim piece, score the paint and caulking with a utility knife so as not to damage walls when removing it. Slide a putty knife into the joint where the trim meets the door frame. Pry the trim away from the door enough so you can work a flat bar into the space and slowly pry off the trim piece. If you're careful, you should be able to reuse these pieces.

Now, remove the sliding panel. With the trim off, the nailing fins on the exterior are exposed and the door can be removed.

You will want to remove as much weight as possible, so first lift the sliding panel out of the door and put it in your recycling pile. Then, remove the nails in the nailing flange with a tool called a cat's paw. There also will be a number of screws through the frame, especially through the sill, which will need to be removed. Then, with all nails and screws out, remove the old door and frame.

Measure the rough opening and check that it's plumb and level. Even though you're replacing an old slider with a new one, the rough openings may differ. If that's the case, some modification of the opening will be necessary. Usually, the new door requires a smaller opening.

If so, build out the opening with the correct width of plywood to get the right rough opening. If the opening needs to be enlarged, reframing it is a big job. We'd probably return the new door and search for one that fits.

Installation is fairly straightforward. The new door will come with detailed instructions. Follow them to ensure that new door is properly secured to the rough framing. Pay attention that the door is plumb and square in the opening and that it is properly caulked and insulated to prevent water and air infiltration.

 

For a more detailed look, we found a thorough instructional video on replacing a sliding patio door:www.ronhazelton.com/projects/how_to_install_a_sliding_patio_door.

If you have a chimney, it needs to be swept

By Paul Bianchina
Inman News®

As fall starts putting a bit of a chill in the air again, it's time to start thinking of things to do around the house to get ready. If you burn wood in a fireplace or a wood stove, whether it's your primary source of heat or just for an occasional pleasant evening fire, one thing you can be sure of is that your chimney's going to get dirty. It's simply an inescapable fact of life that chimneys and soot go hand in hand, and that combination can equal some serious, life-threatening danger if you don't take care of it.

As wood burns, not all of it is consumed, and what isn't consumed goes up your fireplace chimney or wood stove flue pipe in the form of creosote and soot. Creosote is a thick, oily material that results from the distillation of wood smoke, which solidifies as it cools. Soot is basically particles of partially burnt material that builds up in chimneys, metal flue pipes, and flue caps.

Over time, the soot and solidified creosote build up and clog the interior of the chimney or flue pipe. When the temperatures in the flue get high enough, which they can easily do when a fire is burning in the fireplace, the creosote will ignite. The result is a flue fire, which can destroy your entire home!

Chimney sweeping

The only way to get rid of the soot and creosote is through regular cleaning. Chimney cleaning -- or sweeping as it's more properly known -- is a matter of physically brushing the inside of the chimney to dislodge the built-up material.

Chimney sweeping can be physically tiring and even dangerous. Tall chimneys, long ladders, steep roofs, and icy conditions can make for a hazardous combination. If your chimney needs cleaning but undertaking the work is not your idea of a fun weekend, consider hiring it out to a chimney sweep.

Chimney sweeping is an honored profession that goes back centuries -- in fact, some legends suggest that chimney sweeps bring good luck. Today's chimney sweeps are licensed, bonded and insured -- something you want to be sure and check on before hiring them. They have the proper tools for the job, and are also experienced enough to detect potential chimney and flue problems and bring them to your attention before they result in a house fire.

Typically, chimney sweeps will begin with a physical inspection of your fireplace or wood stove, the chimney or flue pipe, the spark arrestor, and any other components of the system. If they see any problems, they'll typically make specific suggestions for repair, or they may recommend masons, wood stove technicians, or other professionals who can assist you with any necessary repairs.

Next, they'll cover the interior portion of the fireplace with plastic as necessary to contain any soot and dust that's created during the cleaning process. Then they'll head up onto the roof and, using a combination of long poles, brushes and scrapers, proceed to thoroughly brush and clean the insides of the chimney, causing the hardened material to break off and fall to the bottom. The final step is to clean out the inside of the fireplace, then vacuum up any dust.

Do-it-yourself chimney sweeping

Armed with the proper tools, chimney sweeping is well within the capabilities of most do-it-yourselfers. You'll need one or more chimney brushes of the proper size, as well as poles or ropes to work the brushes through the chimney. You can get what you need at most fireplace and woodstove dealers, home centers, hardware stores, and some other retailers.

It's important to use some common sense here. Use a sturdy ladder of the appropriate size for the job. Set it up correctly and don't overextend yourself -- it takes only one slip to result in disaster. Wear appropriate clothing and slip-resistant footwear.

Finally, when cleaning out the fireplace be sure and place the ashes in an airtight container. Even ashes you think are cool can still retain a remarkable amount of heat, and can burn right through paper bags, plastic garbage cans, cardboard boxes, and other unsuitable containers.

How often to clean

If you have the bad habit of damping the fire down and depriving it of oxygen so that it will burn longer, the result is a lot more smoke. That's not only harmful to the environment, but it also produces a far greater amount of partially burnt solids. These solids will build up rapidly, so the chimney will get dirty much more quickly, and should be cleaned on yearly basis. On the other hand, hotter fires that burn the wood more efficiently also help clean the chimney, and can probably be cleaned less often, but you'll need to rely on a visual inspection to be sure.

Asbestos disclosure a 'mine field' for home inspectors

By Barry Stone
Inman News®

DEAR BARRY: If a home inspector knew there was asbestos in a building that was being renovated, shouldn't he have said something? In this case, a safety officer finally shut down the project. Is the home inspector liable for not warning us about asbestos? --Gerald

DEAR GERALD: The answer to your question has some complexities. First of all, a home inspector cannot know for certain that a particular material contains asbestos. Some building materials may be suspect, but laboratory analysis is necessary to conclude that asbestos fibers are present.

Secondly, the standards of practice for home inspectors specifically exclude environmental hazards. Therefore, home inspectors are not liable in a legal sense for not disclosing asbestos materials.

On the other hand, experienced home inspectors are aware, or should be aware, of materials that are likely to contain asbestos. Common examples include acoustic textured ceilings, old forms of duct insulation, vinyl floor coverings, old drywall mud, old asphalt composition roofing materials, roofing mastic, old pipe insulation, and more.

Some home inspectors might point out a material as "may contain asbestos," while recommending further evaluation by an asbestos specialist. But most home inspectors avoid the subject completely for fear of becoming liable for materials that they do not disclose as "may contain asbestos." The problem here is fear of litigation, a major threat to home inspectors, as it is to most people who are in business.

On the other hand, if a home inspector is aware that a client plans to remodel a home, or if an inspector sees work in progress, it would be wise for that inspector to recommend a professional asbestos inspection prior to commencing or continuing work on the property.

Unfortunately, the subject of asbestos disclosure is a mine field for inspectors, giving rise to conflicting opinions when home inspectors gather to discuss and debate the details and procedures of their work.

In any event, a home inspector who says nothing about asbestos is protected by the standards of practice for the profession and is not legally liable for nondisclosure.

DEAR BARRY: Our home has two layers of shingle roofing. When we bought it two years ago, the seller said the shingles were 17 years old. How much longer can we expect a second roof layer to last? --Julie

DEAR JULIE: The number of roof layers should not affect the longevity of the material. What matters is the quality of the product. Shingles are rated according to the number of years they are warranted by the manufacturer. You can buy 20-year shingles, 30-year shingle, 40-year shingles, and so on.

Longevity is also affected by the climate. In areas with hot, dry summers, shingles wear out sooner than in locales with cooler climates or with overcast skies.

The only way to determine the condition and remaining longevity of your roof is to have it inspected by a qualified roofing contractor or a competent home inspector. If you had a home inspection when you bought the home, the inspector should have given you some idea of the condition of the roofing.

When hiring contractor, be a 'tough customer'

By Bill and Kevin Burnett
Inman News®

This is a cautionary tale. The moral of this story is when a homeowner hires a contractor, it's incumbent on him or her to oversee the work and call any problems to the contractor's attention immediately. There are no dumb questions, and don't stop asking until you're satisfied with the answer. This hit close to home recently.

A friend of ours sells books to school libraries. Because of the lousy economy and because the book market is going more and more digital, her income is shrinking along with her sales. The company is in the midst of restructuring, and our friend fully expects that she and many other salespeople are about to be unemployed.

Anticipating what seems to be the inevitable, our friend is tightening her belt and getting her condo ready to sell. She sought our advice on what to do.

We told her she needed to redo her small master bathroom, add some fresh paint, make some minor repairs, declutter, and clean, clean, clean. Then put it on the market and hope for the best.

Because she's not certain whether she owes more than the condo is worth, it's important that any work she does be inexpensive. It still has to look good, though. She went to one of the local big box stores to buy a prefab shower stall and a new toilet, vanity and vinyl flooring. She also bought new fixtures for the vanity and shower and contracted for installation through the store. The total cost of the new bath is about $4,000, which she hopes to recoup via an increased sales price.

Our friend found out she could save $1,000 or so by demolishing the old master bath and taking care of the painting herself. This left some rough plumbing, shower stall installation, a bit of Sheetrocking and floor installation for the pros.

This sounded like a good plan to us, but all didn't quite go according to plan.

The plumber came in only a day later than promised (not bad in the building trades) and moved the shower drain and set the shower pan. The drywall contractor came in the next day to patch the wall above the edge of the shower walls. He took one step into the shower and noticed that the pan flexed up and down about 1/2 inch. He said, "This isn't right," and left, figuring that the pan and shower walls needed to come out, meaning he would have to do the Sheetrock work twice. Work stopped.

Whenever we install a new prefab shower pan or tub enclosure we set it in bed of thin-set mortar to ensure a solid base. This plumber did not do that.

Our friend complained to the general contractor who gave her a song and dance about "workmanlike business practices" and how they "always do it this way." We told our friend to get a second opinion, and a licensed plumber soon confirmed that the installation was done improperly.

After a little debate, Sarah and the general contractor agreed to support the bottom of the pan with expanding foam shot through holes drilled in the subfloor. We're a little leery of this solution. Open cell foam can compress when crushed so although it may be a temporary fix we're skeptical that it will stand the test of time.

Nevertheless, with a solution of sorts in the offing, the Sheetrocker came back and did the patch job.

The contract also called for installation of a new vinyl floor. The flooring contractor, an old pro whom our friend had used before, took one look at the vinyl curling around the edges and told Sarah she needed new underlayment. The general contractor missed this too.

In the end, the bath will look just fine. Our friend's a good painter and the drywall job is professional. Our friend will enlist Kevin to confirm that she installs the new toilet, vanity and countertop correctly.

Like our dad always said, "If you're going to do a job, do it right." And we say, if you hire someone to do a job, be a tough customer. It's your duty to make sure it's done right.

Modern homes lousy at storing our possessions

With apologies to the late, great George Carlin, where do keep your stuff?

Everybody has stuff. We Americans like to keep our stuff in the garage, instead of parking our cars there. We park the cars in the driveway, or on the street, so our garages can hold more stuff. But some people don't stop there. They cram the kitchen, the bathroom, sometimes the whole house full of stuff.

Yup, we Americans sure love our stuff. We buy more and more of it every year, never doubting that we'll be a lot happier as soon as we get our hands on even more stuff. This is a big comfort to our corporate marketing pals, who would really panic if we suddenly stopped buying all their stuff.

Rather than making us happier, though, what really happens with most of this stuff is that we just get tired of having it. You know the stuff I'm talking about: the fancy exercise machine with the digital readout; the bread, popcorn, peanut butter and yogurt makers with the digital readouts; and of course the air hockey table with the digital readout. Then there's that expensive gaming console your kids just had to have, which was white-hot two years ago and now is totally worthless.

All of this ends up in the garage, in closets, or under beds, inevitably transformed into just that much more useless stuff.

Of course, the best way to deal with all this stuff is to get rid of it and try not to buy any more for a while. My personal litmus test is this: If this stuff I've squirreled away suddenly vanished, would I ever even notice it was gone? Usually, the honest answer is no -- if I never saw this stuff again, I'd forget I ever had it.

Let's suppose you got rid of the stuff you didn't need, and now you're down to the irreducible kernel of stuff you think you really do need. Where do you put it?

Alas, much as we Americans love our stuff, our homes are poorly equipped to store it. Our storage arrangements are designed mainly for show, not for practicality. Sure, there may be lots and lots of fancy-looking cabinets -- whether in the kitchen, the bathroom, the laundry, or even in the closets -- but for the most part, they do a lousy job of storing your stuff.

Take the average base cabinet, for example. To find anything in there, especially if it's at the back, you have to go groveling on your hands and knees. Extra-cost bells and whistles such as pullout shelves or drawers help, but they can't overcome the basic flaw, which is that these cabinets are both too low and too deep to get at things easily.

Conventional wall cabinets aren't much better, because the interior space is typically chopped up into sections by vertical dividers, which are there, it turns out, mainly to attach those elaborate doors designers love so much.

While acres of fancy doors may look impressive, there's a simpler, cheaper and more practical way to store stuff: on plain old open shelves, in a little room that's just for storing all your stuff.

Next time, the junk room -- cheap, simple and it actually works.

Consider tin ceilings for a classic look

By Paul Bianchina
Inman News®

Q: I have been researching how to fix my horrible plaster ceilings and found a few solutions. My question relies on any or all knowledge you have regarding classic tin ceilings. Can you provide any answers to this? The American Tin Ceiling Co. seems to have some cool products for homeowners. Do you know of them? --Daniel M.

A: I'm familiar with these products, and in my opinion they're quite good. They have a number of different sizes and pattern to choose from, along with all the necessary trim pieces and other items you might need to complete the installation.

The most important thing to consider is that the panels need to be attached to something solid -- you can't install them directly over the old plaster. You can cover the old ceiling with plywood, oriented strand board (OSB), or even strips of one-by-two or one-by-three lumber.

Whatever you do, remember that the plywood or wood furring needs to be as flat and even as possible, so that may entail shimming the wood or removing some of the old plaster. Also, the panels need to be supported on all four sides, since that's where the attachment nails are installed. If you opt for the furring strips, they will need to be installed on 24 inch centers, with cross pieces installed every 24 inches as well; in other words, you need to form a 24-by-24-inch grid across the ceiling.

After the plywood or furring is installed, the tin panels are installed one at a time, either hand nailing them or using a small brad nailer. This is a two-person job: one to set and hold the panel, the other to nail it in place.

This is not a particularly difficult do-it-yourself project, but it does require a lot of preplanning to have it come out right. Also, you mentioned that your old plaster ceilings are "horrible." If that also means any mold or water damage, be sure that you get that cleared up first; do not just cover up mold or moist building materials.

Q: I have insulation in my unfinished attic in the rafters with the paper facing in towards the heated part of the house. My problem is the paper is brittle and the insulation is falling down, rows at a time. I could put the wire up to hold the insulation up in place, but it will not look pretty. What else can I put up over the whole surface to hold the insulation in place? --Keith M.

A: If you don't want the expense of replacing the insulation, here's a solution that's a little more labor intensive but it won't cost you very much. One row at a time, remove the insulation from between the rafters. Peel the paper face off the insulation -- it should peel off pretty easily -- and discard it, then push the insulation back into place between the rafters. Friction should hold the batts in place temporarily.

When you've done several rafter cavities, or even one entire half of the attic if the insulation will stay in place OK, you can then cover the insulation with 4-mil clear plastic sheeting. Simply staple the sheeting to the face of the rafters. If you have to seam the plastic in any areas, make sure it overlaps at least a couple of inches. If you live in a high-humidity area, the seams should also be sealed with tape. The plastic sheeting will hold the insulation in place and also act as a vapor barrier.

All this assumes that you have adequate ventilation behind the insulation to prevent any potential problems in the event that any moisture does get into the cavities. If you're not sure about the ventilation situation, it's best to contact a qualified roofing or insulation contractor to inspect the situation before you proceed.

Q: I am currently doing a project of painting all the exterior trim on my house. It was painted with an exterior alkyd gloss 10 years ago, so I was told to continue using the oil, which I am. I am having a problem during application, with a brush or roller, thinned or not thinned, with air bubbles. The paint is bubbling about five to 10 minutes after I apply it and it's drying like that. Any suggestions on what's causing this? A remedy would be great. -- Anonymous painter

A: The old trim that you're painting has to be dry, clean, and slightly rough, otherwise the new paint won't adhere to it. It sounds like the trim either has some underlying moisture or some type of surface coating (a film of dirt, oil, or something else) that's preventing adhesion. I would suggest you make sure the wood is dry, then lightly sand the old paint with 180- to 220-grit paper to roughen it so the new paint will grip better. Wipe off any sanding dust, then paint. If you have any bare wood showing, be sure it's primed with oil-based primer before applying the new paint.

Incidentally, you can also make the switch to latex paint, which would actually be my preference. The trim, as I mention, needs to be clean and dry. De-gloss the old paint with 180- to 220-grit paper (old oil-based paint actually sands much more easily than latex) dust it off, then apply a coat of oil-based or shellac-based primer. I like BIN pigmented shellac myself. Follow the manufacturer's instructions, and have good ventilation. Once the primer is dry, you have a solid surface for painting over with latex.

These suggestions apply only to homes built after 1978. For pre-1978 homes, you need to have the paint tested for lead before doing any sanding. For more information, please go to www.epa.gov/lead.

6 tips for upgrading home's electrical system

By Bill and Kevin Burnett
Inman News®

Q: Recently you advised a correspondent on upgrading the electrical system in an older house. You recommended that he upgrade to a 200-amp main electrical panel. What is this based on? Is 200 amps the new baseline standard for residential electrical service? How would you describe the typical electrical service standard for new or remodeled houses?

A: The National Electrical Code (NEC) governs the size of the electrical panel for new homes or remodeled homes. There are various versions of the NEC. Check with your local building department to see which version is followed in your area.

If you're considering doing some electrical work on your home, please heed this word of caution. Electrical work is not for the novice do-it-yourselfer. While it's certainly possible for an amateur to add an outlet or replace a light switch with a dimmer switch, doing much more probably means hiring a licensed electrician.

We've noted that Bill was the electrician and Kevin was the plumber when we built Kevin's house and remodeled Bill's. Both of us had pretty extensive experience before tackling these projects, and we studied up before moving forward. And, on all these jobs, permits were pulled and our work was signed off by building inspectors.

If you decide to tackle an electrical job, consult your local building department and get an electrical permit before starting work. Have the job inspected at the appropriate intervals dictated by the inspector.

Because modern homes us a number of energy-hungry appliances, a 200-amp panel is the minimum we'd suggest. This size panel will adequately serve an average home and give room for some upgrades.

The total amperage of the branch circuit breakers serving the house should not exceed the amperage of the panel.

The load needed to serve the electrical demands of the devices in the house dictates panel size. Modern appliances such as electric cooktops, ovens, clothes dryers and air conditioners, as well as mixers, hair dryers and so forth, can eat up panel space in a hurry.

Multiple lights and most outlets can be run on a single circuit. But devices such as microwave ovens, cooktops, ovens and clothes dryers require a dedicated circuit.

Here are a few rules of thumb when thinking about the electrical requirements in your house:

1. Wire size is counterintuitive. The larger the gauge number, the smaller the wire. Eighteen-gauge wire is smaller than 12-gauge wire. The larger the wire, the greater the load it can handle safely without getting hot or causing a fire.

2. Generally a 14-2 Romex cable will serve most outlets. This means two insulated 14-gauge wires and one bare wire encased in a rubber sheath. The black wire is the "hot" wire; the white wire is the neutral wire; and the bare wire is the ground wire. It's suitable for loads up to 15 amps.

Vacuum cleaners and lamps operate just fine on this amperage. Most home plug circuits are wired with 14-2 Romex that supply up to eight outlets per circuit. Depending on the usage, a couple of fewer outlets per circuit might be in order.

3. Generally, outlets serving the kitchen and dining room should be 20-amp circuits wired with 12-2 Romex. This is because these circuits will likely take appliances that draw greater amperage.

4. Outlets and switches within a certain proximity to a sink or other water source must be protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). A GFCI breaks the circuit even when a minute amount of water is present. This safety device prevents electric shock and in extreme cases prevents death. Plugs installed in basements, garages, outdoors and bathrooms also require GFCI protection.

5. Electric dryers require a 30-amp outlet protected by a 30-amp circuit breaker, while an electric oven mandates a 50-amp and 8-gauge wire protected by a 50-amp breaker.

6. It's important to size circuit breakers for the wire size they serve. If a 14-2 cable is run from the panel to the outlet, then a 15-amp circuit breaker is the largest that can be used to protect that circuit. If a 12-2 cable is run from the panel to the outlet, then a-20 amp circuit breaker is the largest that can be installed to protect the circuit.

Back in the day when many houses used fuses it was not uncommon for unknowing homeowners to replace a 15-amp fuse that was constantly failing with a 20-amp fuse. This mistake created the risk of a wire overheating and causing a fire.

Rotten deck boards could be sign of larger problem

By Paul Bianchina
Inman News®

Q: I recently purchased a home. I have a deck that is more than 600 square feet and needs some repair, such as replacing rotting wood. The person who built the deck used nails, not screws. The nails are popping up in some places. Also, I am concerned how the deck will look with partially replaced wood. The color won't be the same.

I can't replace the whole deck because of the expense. I would like to sell the house in five years or so and move to a different part of the country. Any advice you can give will be greatly appreciated. --Connie D.

 

A: You need to be thinking about safety first, so begin by carefully and thoroughly evaluating the deck to see what its condition is and what needs to be replaced.

I hate to make a bad situation worse for you, but if you have rotting deck boards, there's a possibility that you may have some rotten or damaged support framing as well. The fact that the nails aren't holding is another indicator of that. You definitely don't want to put a Band-Aid on the deck by replacing a few deck boards over support framing that's unsafe and unstable, so you need to determine that first. If the joists or other framing that support the deck need to be replaced, you may not have any choice about removing all of the deck boards, so the color matching becomes a moot point.

If it turns out you're only replacing some of the boards, then you want to be sure that you select boards of the same size and wood species. After the new boards are in place, work your way around over the entire deck and remove any loose nails. Pull them straight up and out, using a thin scrap of wood or metal under the pry bar to prevent damaging the deck boards. Replace the nails with new, longer, all-weather screws that are made for deck use.

To get a color match, consider having the entire deck sanded and stained with a UV-resistant deck stain. This will offer good protection for the wood, will blend the colors, and will keep the deck looking rich. Done correctly, the deck will become a resale asset to the home when you go to sell it.

 

Q: I'm going be having some hip surgery soon, and I'd like to install grab bars in my older tile shower. How do I do that so they'll be secure, and also not break any tiles? --Ellen R.

A: The grab bar has to be attached to something solid, such as a stud. It can't be screwed directly to the tile, or attached with anchors. Some stud finders will work though tile, or if you have a drywall area above the tile, you can locate the studs there. When you know where the stud is, mark the mounting hole locations for the grab bar. You can install the grab bar vertically so both ends are on the same stud, or at an angle so each end is on an adjacent stud.

Use a masonry bit that's larger in diameter than the diameter of the screws you'll be using to fasten the grab bar, and drill a hole through the tile at each of the mounting locations. The reason for doing this is so that the mounting screws will pass through the tile without binding up. Just drill through the tile and whatever mortar is behind it, not into the stud itself. You'll know you've drilled far enough when you stop seeing mortar dust coming out of the hole while you're drilling.

Switch to a smaller, standard bit and drill pilot holes in the stud, whatever size is correct for the mounting screws you're using. Squirt a small dab of clear silicone into each of the holes in the tile. Hold the grab bar in place, and attach it to the wall with the mounting screws. The silicone will keep moisture from getting into the wall and damaging the wall framing. Install the trim rings on the grab bars, and you're done.

Incidentally, the grab bars are probably going to be tax deductible as a medical expense. Hang onto all your receipts and give them to your accountant at the end of the year.

 

Q: I live in a townhome. My master bedroom has a common wall with my neighbor's master bedroom. I hear all kinds of things and am desperate to find a soundproofing solution. I've heard of QuietRock soundproof drywall; however, it's expensive and I don't want to spend a lot of money on something that may not be sufficiently effective. Do you know if QuietRock drywall is effective in blocking noise? Or do you have any other suggestions for soundproofing? --Lynn G.

 

A: While I don't have any personal experience with installing QuietRock, everything I've heard about the product is very good. My understanding is that, while it is expensive, it compares favorably to other soundproofing methods when you take the additional labor of other methods into consideration.

I would suggest that you talk with a licensed drywall contractor who's experienced with sound issues; your local drywall supplier will have some recommendations of good contractors. Have one or two visit your house and evaluate the situation, and offer specific suggestions for your particular home. Also, if the home is less than 1 year old, I would also talk with the original building contractor, since you may have some warranty help available as well.

5 ways homeowners can protect against wildfires

By Paul Bianchina
Inman News®

Wildfires have become a tragic part of the daily news lately. They can strike anywhere, at any time, with no warning. State and federal firefighting budgets are stretched to the max as well, so it's more important than ever that you do everything you can to ensure that your home is as safe as possible. Should a wildfire ever come through your area, don't let your home become a statistic!

It doesn't take that much to protect your property against wildfire, and it helps with curb appeal and resale value at the same time. You might even consider organizing a neighborhood group to make the work go that much faster. Here are some of the steps you need to take:

Create a fire break

The single most important thing to do is create a defensible, noncombustible fire break around your home. If you have a noncombustible roofing material, such as metal, tile or composition shingles, then your fire break should extend out for 30 feet in all directions. To determine the layout of that area, simply measure out 30 feet from each edge of your home's combustible materials.

For example, you might need to measure from the edge of the roof overhang, or from the edge of a patio cover. If your home has a wooden deck, measure from the edge of that, but if you have a concrete or brick patio, you can measure from the house instead.

One of the biggest dangers during a wildfire is wind-driven embers. So if your home has a combustible roof, such as cedar shakes or shingles, you need to extend the fire break area from 30 feet out to 50 feet.

Within the fire-break area, you want to create a zone where things can't burn. That doesn't mean you have to clear cut and pave everything! You just want to create a well-maintained area that's as free as possible of combustible vegetation. For example, consider using fire-resistant landscaping such as grass, low groundcovers and low shrubbery. The other alternatives are hardscaping materials such as gravel, pavers or any other materials that won't burn.

Trim trees and remove dead material

Also within that defensible zone you need to thin out excess trees. During a fire, the flames will easily spread from tree to tree, so you want to thin them so they're no less than 10 feet apart. You also want to be sure to remove any dead trees.

All remaining healthy trees within the zone need to be limbed up to a height of at least 6 feet. This is done to prevent a fast-moving ground fire from being able to work its way up into the trees. For the same reason, all dead plant material should be removed or at least broken up so there isn't a fuel bed. Finally, be sure you cut dry grass to less than 4 inches high.

Clear your driveway

It's not something a lot of people think about, but in the event of fire, emergency vehicles need to be able to have clear access to your home if they're going to protect it. If you're on a piece of property with a long driveway that's more than 150 feet, fire officials typically request that overhanging trees be limbed up and back so there's at least 13 1/2 feet of vertical clearance and 12 feet of horizontal clearance. Protect your driveway from the fire by keeping vegetation cleared back for 10 feet from the driveway's centerline on each side.

Clean up your roof

Remove any dead branches that overhang your roof. Also, remove dead leaves and pine needles from the roof and gutters, including patio covers; those leaf and needle buildups are extremely flammable, and a single spark or ember can spread with amazing speed. Don't forget outbuildings on your property as well!

While you're up there, remember that sparks from your fireplace or woodstove are a real fire hazard. In addition to the cleaning, trim overhanging tree branches back a minimum of 10 feet from the chimney in all directions.

Be careful with outdoor storage

You don't want to store firewood right alongside your house, since it can become a real fire hazard and a source of a lot of retained heat during a wildfire. Move your firewood, as well as any lumber piles, at least 20 feet away from the house until fire season is over. Or, better yet, build a separate, enclosed wood storage shed a safe distance away.

The same is true for open areas under decks, which can be an inviting area for storing wood, gasoline and other flammable liquids, and all kinds of things that can catch fire easily and sustain a fire for a long time. Keep the underside of decks and stairs clear of anything and everything that can burn.

5 rules for home improvement safety

By Bill and Kevin Burnett
Inman News®

Kevin had a doctor's appointment last week. He's been a patient of Rodde Cox since 2005, so they know each other pretty well. Usually, the medical stuff is dispatched fairly quickly, and then the discussion gets into some friendly banter. The appointment is usually the last one of the day, so after the medical treatment, the time is spent "swatting flies and telling lies."

This time, Dr. Cox asked if we're still writing our Sweat Equity column. When Kevin said "yes," the conversation veered off into dumb things we'd done with tools.

We always preach safety first, but we don't always practice what we preach. We're passing along some tips to avoid doing the dumb things we've done, in hopes that the lessons we learned will save our readers a trip to the emergency room.

1. Use a push block to control wood when near the saw blade or router bit. Dr. Cox is an avid woodworker. He was working with a router mounted in a table when he tried to push a piece past the moving bit with his hand. He got a fingernail caught in a spinning bit. Fortunately for him, it just ripped the fingernail off. It was painful, but the nail grew back, in time. Given his profession, this could have been a career changer.

Kevin wasn't so lucky. Years ago, he was ripping some fence pickets on his radial arm saw. Tedium got the best of him and he began gathering wool. He reached around the blade and opened up a gash between his thumb and index finger. Luckily, he didn't sever a tendon.

2. Turn off the breaker when working with electricity. Both of us have gotten a little cocky around electricity. Bill was working on one of his Alameda, Calif., houses doing some rewiring. He was under the house, lying on his back on damp ground, when he grabbed a live wire in a junction box. It took him a while to break free. No permanent harm, but it sure shook him up, and no more work was done that day.

Kevin was working on a garbage disposal and, being overconfident and lazy, he didn't want to drag himself from under the sink to turn off the power. Sure enough, a misplaced hand got him bit.

3. Unplug saws, routers and other tools when changing blades and bits. Dr. Cox has a Shopsmith, a large, multipurpose tool that can be configured to do just about anything with wood, from cutting to sanding to shaping to boring holes. He was adjusting the tool when a faulty switch caused it to start. Again, no damage was done, but it was a close call.

4. When working with power drills and saws, push the blade or bit away from you. Kevin learned this one the hard way. We were replacing the brick foundation under Bill's house; the house was properly braced with temporary supports. Kevin was cutting out the cripple studs to remove the mudsill. In a moment of brilliance, he decided to pull the reciprocating saw toward him; the blade bound, jumped out of the cut and plunged into his leg. There wasn't any blood to speak of, but the muscle was cut, and he carries a lump and a scar to this day.

5. Take extra care when working with nail guns. Bill was framing a soffit during a kitchen remodel, holding the wood in place with his left hand and firing the nail gun with his right. The gun recoiled, sending a 16d nail three inches into his hand. This little misadventure required a trip to the emergency room, where the doctor removed the offending object with a common pair of pliers. The job stopped. Bill couldn't use his left hand for a week.

These cautionary tales were close calls with little damage done. Not so for the final one. A patient of Dr. Cox's managed to push his hand through a table saw. Knowing he did some damage and being a bit squeamish, he wrapped the hand up without looking at it and headed to the emergency room. The ER doc undid the makeshift dressing and noticed that the patient was missing two fingers. Apparently he left them on the shop floor.

His wife called the next-door neighbor and asked him to grab the severed digits for possible reattachment. A little later the neighbor called and said, "I've got some good news and bad news. The bad news is I can't find the fingers. The good news is your dog cleaned up the mess." Dr. Cox swears this is a true story.

The bottom line is that overconfidence and complacency are your enemy. Pay attention and practice sound safety procedures.