DIY Platform Bed

Platform Bed

Cut from plywood and customizable to any size mattress, this platform bed eliminates the need for a box spring and adds lots of storage.

This bed, made from mostly plywood, is affordable, customizable, and something you can build this weekend and finish the next. The plans include all the dimensions you need for a twin-, full-, queen-, or king-size mattress (no need for box springs with this platform bed). Size your bed from one of two plan options. For a twin or full size, use Plan Set 1. For the queen or king size, use Plan Set 2. The twin and full beds are shorter than a king and queen. The larger width and length of the queen and king beds require a center divider in the end case and longer side cases to support the larger bed sizes. Substitute birch plywood and edge tape for all of the plywood parts, and replace oak with maple or poplar for a light wood option. Or, paint it to coordinate with your bedroom colors. To add a modern twist, use MDF (medium density fiberboard) with no edge tape, and apply a clear polyurethane finish. You can also choose a variety of stain colors, or apply a clear finish to the oak.

Build the Base

Step 1: Cut the 3/4-inch plywood into smaller sections to create the side case bottoms/tops (A), dividers (B), side backs (C), end case top/bottom (D), and the end case back (E) (Project Diagram, Cutting Diagram and Cutting List). If you are building the queen- or king-size bed, there is one extra divider than the full/twin size, and it’s used in the end case.

Good to Know: Each size bed has a different Cutting List and Cutting Diagram, so before sawing any wood, grab the cutting list that matches your bed size. There are two sets of drawings for the four major mattress sizes. One plan is for a twin or full, and another for a queen or king. The main difference, aside from the width of the mattress is the length of the mattress. A twin and full are the same length, and a queen and king are the same length. These photos and instructions are for a queen size; but we will point out the subtle differences for the full/twin size.

Step 2: Align the ends of the tops and the bottoms of the side cases and lay out the divider locations (Photo 1). A framing square will help transfer the marks onto both sheets to ensure proper alignment during assembly.

Step 3: Several plywood edges on the tops, bottoms, and dividers will be exposed in the final project and need to be covered with a veneer edge tape (Project Diagram, Drawing 1) to create a finished look. After marking the edges that need to be covered, cut veneer tape pieces an inch longer than those edges. Use a household iron to activate the glue, and press the veneer into position on the edges of the panels (Photo 2). A piece of painter’s tape can secure the veneer until you activate its adhesive.

Step 4: Allow the veneer tape to cool for a few minutes, trim the edges with a utility knife, and sand the panels and edging (Photo 3). A sanding sponge creates a softened edge on the veneer to reduce any sharp edges. A random-orbit sander with 180-grit sandpaper smoothes the plywood panels.

Step 5: Apply glue to a divider, position it against the bottom, and clamp in position. Drill a countersunk pilot hole and drive a screw 1 inch from the front edge. Use a square to ensure the dividers are 90 degrees to the front edge and secure with the remaining screws. Repeat for the other dividers.

Step 6: Glue and screw the top to the case. Secure the back using screws but no glue (when finishing the case it will be easier to remove the back to access the inside of the case). The case back attaches flush to the headboard end of the case, and the remaining opening near the foot of the bed is covered by the end case (Photo 5). When the first case is complete, assemble the second side case and the end case.

Headboard and Mattress Support

Step 1: Cut the headboard panel (F), stiles (G), and rail (H) to size (Project Diagram, Cutting Diagram and Cutting List) and assemble using glue and screws (Project Diagram, Drawing 2). Cut the 2-inch-wide veneer edging and iron in place on the headboard (Photo 6). Trim and sand away the excess.

Step 2: Trim the cool veneer with a utility knife and sand the assembled headboard smooth. 

Step 3: Cut the side rails (I) and end rail (J) to length and sand smooth. 

Step 4: Cut the side supports (K) from 2 x 4s, the slats (L) from 1 x 4s, and the platform (M) from 3/4-inch-thick plywood. The plywood needs no edging and the parts do not require a finish.

Good to Know: For a twin-size bed, no slats are needed under the platform. For a king-size bed, you’ll need two platform pieces to cover the opening.

Finish and Assembly

Step 1: Apply the stain of your choice to the base cabinets, headboard assembly, and the rails. After the stain dries, apply three coats of satin polyurethane. After each coat cures, sand the clear finish with a 320-grit sanding sponge, wipe with a tack cloth, and apply the next coat. When the final coat cures, reinstall the case backs. 

Step 2: Apply the side supports (K) to the back of the side cases (Project Diagram, Drawing 2) -- the top edge of the 2 x 4s should be 1-1/2-inch below the top of the cases and flush with each end of the case side backs (C) (Photo 7). For the twin-size bed, the slats will not be used; position the side supports 3/4-inch below the top edge of the case.

Step 3: Add the side rails (I) to the side cases. The rails should be flush on the headboard end of the cases and overhang the side and footboard end of the cases by 1/2 inch (Photo 8).

Step 4: Move the components into the bedroom and position the cases into the bed location about a foot from the wall. Slip the headboard into position so it extends 1 inch beyond the side cases and 1/2 inch beyond the side rails (I). Drill two 3/8-in holes through the side case dividers (B) and the headboard assembly. Connect the headboard using 1/4-20 connector bolts and nuts tightened using two Allen wrenches. Tightening the connector bolts will square the bed assembly(Photo 9).

Step 5: Install the end rail across the foot of the bed between the side rails so it overhangs the end of the bed by 1/2 inch. 

Step 6: Rest evenly spaced slats (L) on the side supports (Photo 10) and place the platform (M) on the slats.

Step 7: Slide the bed against the wall and add a mattress and linens.